July 1st, 1999
Camp One: Glacier Fiord
Axel Heiberg Island
Yesterday we drove to Ottawa from Rochester. Thus began our month long expedition. After waking up at 4:30 am this morning and leaving our plush hotel (goodbye beds and running water), we traversed to the airport in Ottawa in a limo. Apparently, geologists travel in style. The plane trip from Ottawa included two layovers in Inuit towns that I can barely spell or pronounce...something like Nanisvik and Iqaluit. The first runway was paved but the rest were gravel. The airports looked like small houses and the towns were tiny. The plane trip lasted about nine hours and then we finally arrived in Resolute. The terrain there was flat and the weather was surprisingly warm (~3? C) and sunny. We stayed at the Polar Continental Shelf Project's headquarters for a few hours. The place was fantastic. It basically was a large hotel-like place for scientists complete with bedrooms, recreation room, and kitchen. But we didn't stay long because the weather was good and we had a few more hours to travel.
A twin otter plane flew us from Resolute to Axel Heiberg Island. We landed on a peninsula where we waited for a helicopter to pick us up and fly us down the fiord. The view was breathtaking. Glaciers and large hills and cliffs surrounded the fiord on both sides. We then had to go pick up the crates with our food and drilling equipment. The twin otter had delivered them earlier in the week to the this area. To carry them to camp, we put them in a large cargo net and then attach the net to the bottom of the helicopter as it hovers overhead. I was the one who got to put the net on the chopper and it was definitely amazing to have it hover only a few feet overhead.
Then we started setting up camp. First we set up the radio and then the tents. Then we set up a little kitchen area. We dined overlooking the fiord and the surrounding views. Then we went to bed. It was around 2 am but the sun was out (of course). It's interesting how much less tired one feels when the sun is out. Or maybe that was just the adrenaline from the helicopter ride. (I think if this geology thing doesn't work out, I'll become a chopper pilot.)


July 5th, 1999,
Camp Two: Expedition Fiord
Axel Heiberg Island

Moving Day: This morning we woke up at 6:30 am to finish packing. We finished around 8 am. Then we had a quick, cold breakfast (the kitchen was already packed) and waited for the helicopter. He came around 9:30 am. Just before he lands, we have to take down the radio antennae so that it doesn't get caught in his blades. Then we tossed in about half of the equipment and John and I left. The others waited with the boxes and the rest of the equipment. The boxes are carried in a large net underneath the helicopter. The helicopter can only carry so much weight at one time so it takes three trips to transport our gear. We flew over this huge ice cap and moved farther north on the island. We are closer to the Arctic Ocean here which usually makes this camp colder, cloudier, and windier. This camp is much different than our last one. The Glacier Fiord camp overlooked the fiord and several glaciers on the other side. We were high above the river cut on a sunny ridge. A herd of muskoxen were often seen grazing on the next ridge. Our new camp at Expedition Fiord overlooks the glacier that feeds the river which is much closer to camp. The hills surrounding us are talus covered and are much closer to our camp. A herd of caribou just walked past on the other side of the river. They are an endangered species so it was great to have seen them. The first thing we do in a new camp is set up the radio. A hole must be dug for the antennae's pole. Then the wires are unwound and attached to the pole. The pole is placed in the ground and the antennae and support ropes are staked out. Then we have to set up our tents. There are four tents that we use. John has his own tent which houses the radio. Karrie and I get a tent, Doug and Pete get a tent, and then there is an equipment/rock samples tent.
After this we set up the kitchen. This requires moving boxes and unscrewing lids. Then we unpack the stoves and water jugs. Then we make inner. After dinner, the dishes are done and put away. Then we get to set up our gear in our tents and finally fall asleep.


July 7th, 1999
Camp Two: Expedition Fiord
Axel Heiberg Island

Today we continued drilling. I was the only student John allowed to drill. The drill is much like a chain saw but has a large bit used to create the rock cores. It's fun to use. I made me feel tough. But I think I might feel tough just from being up here.The weather has been amazing. Sunny and in the 40's every day so far. If only February and March could be this nice in Rochester.
Tonight we tiled/lined the kitchen with large, flat stones. Now if it rains, the ground won't be muddy in that high traffic area. Expedition Fiord is notorious for fog, rain, cloudy days, and cold, bad weather. But so far so good.
Friday is a big day. Hair washing, Wet Ones sponge bath, new contacts, and clean clothes. I'm psyched. Hopefully, it won't be raining. When I get back to the "real world" I think I'll find it loud and dirty because it is so quiet and pristine here. But at least there will be a shower and indoor plumbing. I'm starting to crave food that we don't have here like Taco Bell, Dr Pepper, english muffins, and pork chops. But the food here is very good and I definitely never go hungry. It beats the campus dining centers hands down. Except for the soda.
My equipment has been great so far except my gaiters. They were the worst thing I bought. They certainly aren't heavy duty. (I guess I should've bought the Crocodiles.) I just hope they can last the three weeks left. One week ago we left Rochester.


July 19th, 1999
Camp Three: Fossil Camp
Axel Heiberg Island

Today we moved to our third camp, a fossil bed location near Expedition Fiord. The camp isn't very scenic at all. The morning was spent moving and setting up our new camp. In the afternoon, we started digging. Karrie, Doug, Pete, and John found turtle shells and dinosaur bones. I found...well not much. Digging was long and boring. Sitting on a steep slope digging through layers of siltstone is not too exciting. I miss drilling. I guess paleontology is not for me. We're leaving this camp on the 22nd and I can't wait. At least I was able to wash my hair tonight. The river was just the right temperature and it wasn't cloudy at all.


July 22nd, 1999
Camp Four: Blackwelder Mountain Area
Ellesmere Island

Moving Day: We got up and dissembled our third camp between 6:30 and 8 am. (Goodbye fossils.) The chopper came and carried us to Expedition One. This is a semi-permanent scientific base camp nearby. It had an airstrip and since our move was over a long distance, we needed to use the twin otter to transport our gear. Expedition One is composed of two trailers and several tents. Four guys live here from March until August. When they arrive, the snow is about thirteen feet deep and the temperature is well below zero! One of these scientists has been conducting research in the Arctic for twenty-four years straight. We sat in the kitchen trailer drinking coffee and talking while we waited for Karrie, Doug, and Pete to arrive. Then began the real fun. Karrie and I went to the helicopter base at Eureka with the pilot to get a shower! The guys had to stay behind to pack the Twin Otter. When we arrived at the helicopter base however, the Canadian Army (which has a base right next to the helicopter base) was digging up the drains. So instead of showering at the helicopter base, we showered in the military barracks! I felt like I was in Top Gun" or something. After our shower while we waited for the twin otter to arrive, we ate lunch. Another expedition which was stationed at the helicopter base, had its own cook so she made us lunch complete with cookies for dessert! Then the helicopter took us to meet John, Doug, and Pete and we went to our next camp in the Blackwelder Mountain area. It is very beautiful here. John has never been here before so he is just as excited as we are. Everyone's in a great mood. And the weather is so warm and sunny! It has been a unusually warm and dry summer here (great for us tent folks). So we ate dinner in short sleeves. The only bad part is the mosquitoes. I'm very tired from the long day.


July 23rd, 1999
Camp Four: Blackwelder Mountain Area
Ellesmere Island

Today was great. We woke up at 7 am at the usual time and ate breakfast. John told Karrie and I that we were going with him in the helicopter on a day trip. The guys were going to stay behind and measure bed thicknesses at camp. (There was not enough room in the helicopter for all of us at once.) We were excited. The guys were not. The helicopter showed up before the breakfast dishes were even put away. We took off around 8 am.
Some of the samples we collected will be part of my senior thesis. It was very exciting. We first went to Emma Fiord which was about an hour north of camp. I drilled some cores in a dike, oriented them, took a hand sample, and took the strike and dip of a surrounding bed. Orienting involves using a sun compass, the sun's location, and the time of day. Normal compasses don't work at these latitudes. John showed me how to orient and I did it for the rest of the day. These things will all be useful some day in grad school. We then went to a location where the Hansen Point Volcanics were exposed. Despite the fact that these volcanics are about 90 million years old, the cones and cinder were still visible. We then flew to the northern tip of Axel Heiberg Island to refuel. While waiting we saw a mirage out over the ocean. There appeared to be a extra piece of land but it was just reflections created by the water and the sun.
We then went to Bukken Fiord, Bundy Fiord, and some other fiords. We had been gone for about ten hours and were about an hour from camp before we headed back. We landed at camp around 8 pm. It was a long but fun day. I was exhausted but thrilled. The entire day we were just flying around to various fiords. I love helicopters. And we were farther north then I have ever been...almost 82' N.


July 30th, 1999
Camp Four: Blackwelder Mountain Area
Ellesmere Island

We woke up at the usual 7 am time, then headed to the field. We finished around 1 pm and came back. Then we packed the boxes with leftover food, rock samples, stoves, pots, etc. Then we packed our personal stuff and our tents. Then we waited for the helicopter. We started moving the first load at 5 pm. We finished moving and arrived at Eureka at 8:30 pm. We then repacked the food box with some samples (the leftover food stays here). Then we made dinner and ate around 10 pm. After this we showered and arranged our sleeping gear. The base is pretty full right now. Eleven botanists are leaving for the field tomorrow and are staying overnight here as well. Thus, most of the sleeping areas are full except for these two shed-like structures close to the runway.
Karrie and I got to sleep in the MacDonald's one. Some one with a sense of humor had even made a pair of little golden arches for the building.
Tomorrow we're getting up at 7 am. The twin otter is taking us to Resolute at 9 am. When we arrive there, we have to arrange for the boxes to be sent back. Then we're eating lunch at the Polar Shelf with 70+ other scientists. Then we fly back to Ottawa at 2pm. We'll get back to Ottawa pretty late. It's now 2 am so I should go to sleep. I'm not tired at all. It's very good to be clean again. I'm excited to go back but I'm also sad to be leaving. I was a great experience and I learned A LOT. So I have mixed emotions. But I know that I'd love to come back some day.