EES215
Lecture 13
Oceans - general description: size; Large units (Pacific, Atlantic,
Indian); seas: Mediterranean; North; Caribbean; White Sea; Black Sea;
Ocean Floor: ocean basins; trenches; mid-ocean ridges
(MOR); continental slope, rise; continental shelf. Shelf is part of continental
crust (currently flooded), transition between oceanic and continental crust
occurs in continental rise and slope (passive margin; example east coast of
Island arcs are formed by active margins (subduction
zones); marginal seas are landward from island arcs (example
Hot spots form oceanic islands and seamount chains (e.g.
Sea level currently is constant within a few centimeters; major changes in
sea level occurred to presence or absence of ice sheets as the sheet ice
covering
Presence of ice sheets also causes subsidence of continental crust; removal results in elastic rebound of center area and subsidence of marginal areas (e.g. Scandinavia is currently rising, coast of Holland and England is sinking as result of removal of ice sheets; current movement is used to estimate viscosity of underlying mantle). Fig. 4
Oceans have been around for most of the Earth’s history, similar in
make-up and total mass. Distribution of ocean basins changed related to plate
movement (e.g. Gondwana Land; presence of Tethys Sea; opening of Atlantic Ocean)
Make up of water: major constituents; typical element distribution;
origin of elements in the oceans (volcanism - submarine and subaerial;
erosion); residence time for elements depends on geochemical behavior (Fig. 5)
Presence of salts in solution lowers freezing/melting point and eliminates
density anomaly for water: important for density stratification and ocean
convection (Fig. 6)
Presence of oxygen: Derived from atmosphere; presence in most of the oceans
indicates mixing of ocean waters (mixing time ~ 1000 yrs). (Fig. 7)
Some almost closed basins, such as Black Sea, do not turn over and are anoxic
(i.e. without oxygen) at depth.
Forces on oceans:
Gravitational: gravitational potential derived from Earth: first order shape of
sealevel distribution - standard for comparison - definition of geoid (see
discussion of gravity)
Gravitation also important for density stratification of ocean water
gravitational attraction of sun and moon – tides (Fig.
8)
tides are an ocean wide phenomenon: diurnal and semidiurnal cycles; influence
of sun and moon; spring tide and neap tide; generally cause changes of less
than 1 m between high and low tide in the open ocean
In coastal areas tides can get funneled into small areas and can cause large
tidal differences (resonance phenomenon) - example North Sea; Bay of Fundy (up
to 15 m tidal difference); potential for tidal power stations. (Fig. 9)
Seas with narrow and/or shallow connections to open ocean have small tidal
differences (e.g. Black Sea; Baltic Sea).